Cinzano and custard apples

No sooner have I stepped off the bus in Valparaiso - a noisy, bustling seaport an hour's drive from Santiago - and I find myself holed up in an old bar called Cinzano with Eugenio, a former Naval Captain. He´s 81.

A huge bunch of asparagus lies on the bar - Eugenio's just bought it from the market opposite the bus station - and he's drinking red wine from a glass tumbler. He's never been to England but his English is reasonable.

"This place is not elegant," he says of the bar, "but all the people" - he gestures around the room - "are a very good people." Then he points to the barman. "He, excellent. The name is Rodolfo," he declares, and nods to him for a top-up.

Of course, I'd never normally consider drinking before midday - I was halfway through a coffee - but everyone else was at it, so I let Rodolfo pour me a chirimoya from a large jug - a pale, cloudy liquid with yellow shavings floating in it. Turns out it's white wine with chopped up custard apple stirred in. A bit sweet for me but refreshing in Perry-like way. Easy on the palate.

The jug containing the pink concoction is white wine mixed with sliced strawberries. Rodolfo puts plastic bags over the top to stop the flies getting a look-in.

I also try a glass of the fresh custard apple juice - delicious, like sweet, pulpy apples.

Eugenio orders a plate of meat - some kind of chewy pork terrine. It comes with bread and a fiery salsa.

Drinking and talking is hungry business so I dig in. Still the red wine is flowing in Eugenio's direction.

He talks passionately about Valparaiso, Chile and all the countries he called at during the 55 years he was Captain of his ship.

Did you know it takes eight days to sail from Valparaiso to the Antarctic? Depending on the wind, of course. And the amount of wine the Captain's had to drink, too, presumably.

After our chat I offer to pay - a bit risky as I have no idea how far back his tab goes. He could have been there from the night before.

He reluctantly agrees and luckily I end up with enough change for my next meal and the cab fare to take me to the top of the ridiculously steep hill behind Cinzano.

The views are amazing.